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大品牌背后的小故事
2023年10月9日发(作者:房凤友)

大品牌背后的小故事

y Blue Box

蒂芙尼公司是美国一家专门销售钟表、珠宝和银饰的公司。1837

年,蒂芙尼公司由查理斯·路易斯·蒂芙尼和泰迪·杨在纽约市成立,

当时被称为蒂芙尼和杨 (Tiffany & Young),门店设在下曼哈顿区,

是一间专门销售时尚商品的精品店。随后,蒂芙尼制订了一套自己的

宝石、铂金标准,并为美国政府采纳为官方标准。时至今日,蒂芙尼

已成为全球知名的精品公司之一。蒂芙尼蓝是蒂芙尼的标志色,在公

司成立不久,蒂芙尼就采用了这种独特的颜色作为他们品质和工艺的

标志。其蒂芙尼蓝色礼盒 (Tiffany Blue Box) 更成为美国洗练时尚

独特风格的标志。

节目简介

04'58" ] Stand out in the market. (在市场中脱颖而出。)

[ 01'17" ] Six prong setting (六爪镶嵌的钻戒)

[ 02'18" ] You can totally see the diamond from the farthest side of

the room. (在房间最远的角落也能被这枚钻戒亮瞎双眼。)

[ 03'26" ] Tiffany blue (蒂凡尼蓝)

[ 04'23" ] Forget-me-not blue (勿忘我蓝)

[ 04'58" ] American Robin (知更鸟)

[ 05'36" ] Robin’s egg blue (知更鸟蛋蓝)

[ 08'10" ] Annual book (年册目录)

[ 11'08" ] Pendant (项链吊坠)

[ 11'11" ] Charm (护身符)

[ 11'17" ] Hi, I want to see the blue box pendants. (我能否看一看蓝色

小盒上的项链吊坠。)

[ 11'24" ] May I see some blue box charms? (能否看一看蓝色小盒上

的装饰?)

[ 13'17" ] There is a story in every blue box. (每一个蓝色小盒中都藏

有各自的故事。)

[ 14'08" ] Heart shaped charms (心型护身符)

[ 14'11" ] Locker charms (锁型护身符)

[ 14'19" ] Have it engraved (刻字)

“颜色也是有力量的。红色让人振奋,深蓝让人冷静,Tiffany蓝让

人觉得平静而欢愉。

y Keys

Tiffany 珠宝系列中的 Tiffany Keys,其灵感来自于 Tiffany

公司馆藏珍品中的“钥匙”。这些馆藏“钥匙”是由经验丰富的金匠

和银匠手工精制而成,玲珑别致而不乏古典韵味,主要用于珠宝盒,

纪念品盒,影集,日记本和皮箱,甚至作为开启私人俱乐部和乡村庄

园大门的钥匙。馆藏钥匙多镶嵌宝石,被设计成胸针或吊饰,也曾作

为盾徽送给政要。这些极富传奇色彩的“护身符”如今则被衍生为了

Tiffany Keys 系列。

节目简介

Tiffany Keys 系列从何而来?李娜、刘雯和 Tiffany Keys 之间

有什么故事?如何选择 Tiffany Keys 系列伴你一生成长?大品牌

背后的小故事,Q老师携您解锁未来,用 Tiffany Keys 开启你的无

限可能。

语言点

[ 00'38" ] Collection (系列)

[ 01'09" ] Six prong setting (六爪镶嵌的钻戒)

[ 01'28" ] Charm (护身符)

[ 02'17" ] Pendant (项链吊坠)

[ 03'42" ] Unlock the good (开启好运)

[ 03'45" ] Unlock the possibilities (开启无限可能)

[ 04'05" ] Sterling silver (纯银)

[ 04'07" ] Platinum (铂金)

[ 04'14" ] With gems (镶钻的)

[ 04'40" ] At a range of prices (多种价位)

[ 12'32" ] Layer ()

“很多事情只有做了才知道对不对,如果不做的话,连错的机会都没

有。

y Atlas

品牌简介

Tiffany 珠宝系列中的 Tiffany Atlas,其灵感来自自家 Atlas

腕表系列,腕表上的刻度均为浮雕罗马数字,于是 Atlas 系列的珠

宝设计多采用由两个环状罗马数字连接而成的形式制成。Tiffany

Atlas 系列名称取自顶天立地的希腊天神 Atlas借此诉说其对世界

的影响力,并以不落俗套的简洁设计表现作品特色。Atlas 大钟也独

具识别性,这一象征纽约脉动的时钟坐镇于第五大道的 Tiffany

店,凝聚着纽约市精华地区的活力,同时也见证着时代更迭。

节目简介

Tiffany 家的 Atlas 和其他艺术家眼中的 Atlas 有何不同?

百老汇550号是什么地方?Tiffany 门店的裸男雕塑我:

为何托举着一只时钟?大品牌背后的小故事,Q 老师携您穿越时空,

重返美国大萧条年代,一睹 Tiffany 门店的时代变迁。

语言点

[ 01'35" ] Atlas (地球仪)

[ 01'55" ] Roman Numerals (罗马数字)

[ 02'55" ] Leader in quality jewelry trade (珠宝行业的标杆)

[ 03'08" ] Thriving (欣欣向荣的)

05'18" ] Ornament (装饰品)

[ 05'59" ] Exquisite (精致的)

[ 08'21" ] Fit (健康的)

[ 08'22" ] Tight (紧致的)

[ 09'57" ] Timing (时机)

[ 12'40" ] Get in line with (保持一致) the beautiful things.

[ 14'42" ] Classic in design, ageless in beauty. (经典设计,华美永恒。)

有人相信,生活总是越折腾越清醒,有时候,折腾着折腾着,也就

敲打出了自己坚定的信念,再看着这个信念幻化成我们所说的话,

做的决定,和行事的风格。

r Panthere

卡地亚是法国一家钟表和银饰制造商,19世纪中期闻名。

为瑞士历峰集团 (Compagnie Financière Richemont SA) 下属公

司。

卡地亚与猎豹的渊源始于1914年。当年,卡地亚在一枚腕表上

首次呈现了猎豹花纹。缟玛瑙与钻石浓缩大自然之美,黑与白交错铺

陈,开创了斑点图案珠宝的先河,同时也预示着崇尚对比的装饰艺术

风潮即将来临。同年,路易·卡地亚 (Louis Cartier) 委托插画家

乔治·巴比耶 (George Barbier) 设计一张以“淑女与猎豹”为主题

的邀请卡。乔治·巴比耶采用了来自美好年代 (Belle Epoque) 晚期

的优雅风格设计,描绘出一名身着保罗·波瑞 (Paul Poiret) 设计

的皱褶长裙的年轻女子。就这样,那只伏在她脚边的小豹子出名了,

黑白相间的猎豹花纹也就此诞生。

00'13" ] King of Jewelers, Jeweler to Kings (珠宝商里的皇帝,皇帝

的珠宝商)

[ 00'27" ] Cartier (卡地亚)

[ 00'48" ] Louis-François Cartier (路易-弗朗索瓦·卡地亚)

[ 00'51" ] Charles Lewis Tiffany (查理斯·路易斯·蒂芙尼)

[ 01'10" ] Daring (非常出位)

[ 01'50" ] Royal family (皇室)

[ 02'48" ] Panther (猎豹)

[ 03'34" ] Jeanne Toussaint (·杜桑)

[ 05'39" ] Duchess of Windsor (温莎公爵夫人)

终于有一件首饰,不再只是让女人作为被装饰的花瓶,被点缀的美物,

终于有一件首饰,把女人内心的野性,力量和桀骜不驯表达出来。"

.Cartier Love

无比缠绵炙烈,却不可靠的,就是爱情。下一秒就可能烟消云散

的东西,又如何证明它的存在呢?上锁的信物,甚至超越了爱情本身,

成为一首歌咏脆弱的诗歌。不得不称赞 Cartier Love 系列是最美丽

的牢笼,最聪明的设计。1970年问世的 Cartier Love 手镯,拒绝贩

售给个人,必须得情侣一同购买。当然这是一种行销噱头,也是一种

实际考量,因为手环上微小的螺丝很容易掉落,好比消逝的爱情一般

不再复得。因此一人佩戴,需借由另外一人解开与其栓紧的螺丝,

同某种仪式,也是比较保险的作法。

节目简介

Love 系列手镯的设计初衷是什么?Love 系列手镯与贞操带有何关

系?Love 系列手镯为什么不能买给自己?

[ 00'10" ] King of Jewelers, Jeweler to Kings (珠宝商里的皇帝,皇帝

的珠宝商)

[ 00'55" ] Screw (螺丝钉)

[ 01'44" ] Aldo Cipullo (一名意大利设计师)

[ 01'51" ] Love has become too commercial, yet life without love is

nothing a fat zero. (爱这个东西如今过于商业化,但是如果生活没

有爱,那就什么都不是,只剩一个大大的鸭蛋。)

[ 02'44" ] Everlasting (长久的)

[ 05'33" ] Love is not to be taken lightly. (爱不是那么容易能被解开

的。)

[ 05'57" ] Screwdriver (螺丝刀)

[ 06'11" ] Now-iconic (高辨识度的)

06'44" ] Gold-plated (镀金版本)

[ 06'52" ] Solid-gold (足金版本)

[ 07'00" ] Diamond-studded (镶钻的)

[ 08'19" ] Instant hit (大热/爆款)

除了父母以外,在所有别人的爱到来之前,人应该先学会爱自己,

对自己有所承诺。

r Trinity

三只环,三种色。玫瑰金、黄K金、白K金,神秘而又和谐地交织

在一起。具有远见卓识的路易·卡地亚 (Louis Cartier) 先生于1924

年设计出了 Trinity 三色金戒指。三色金还激发了法国诗人让·高克

(Jean Cocteau) 的创作灵感,在其大力推崇下,三色金系列由此

成为永恒经典。三色金具有三种象征:玫瑰金代表爱情,黄K金代

表忠诚,白K金代表友谊。经典的Trinity三色金戒指从此发展成为

承载永恒情感的珠宝系列,Trinity, 一切永远陪伴你”

节目简介

Trinity 灵感哪里Trinity 寓意

Trinity 系列的人都有着怎样的共同点?大品牌背后的小故事,Q

师为您解锁三环,讲述它们各自的故事

00'23" ] Must-have list (必买清单)

[ 01'03" ] Trinity (三环戒指)

[ 01'50" ] Jean Cocteau (让·高克多)

[ 02'54" ] Connection (联系)

[ 03'19" ] Planet Saturn (土星)

[ 03'57" ] Stuck in ones head (令某人挥之不去)

[ 04'10" ] Everything happens for a reason. (所有事情的发生都是有

原因的。)

[ 04'35" ] Manifest (清楚显示)

[ 05'54" ] Coco Chanel (可可·香奈儿)

[ 06'34" ] White gold (白色指环)

[ 06'38" ] Friendship (友谊)

[ 06'40" ] Rose gold (粉色指环)

[ 06'44" ] Love derived from friendship (挚友变挚爱)

[ 06'47" ] Yellow gold (金色指环

[ 06'52" ] Fidelity (忠诚)

[ 06'59" ] Interlock (相互交织)

“活着就是不停地同生活建立 connection不停地去欣赏,去观察,

去感受,然后将所见和所感通过自身表达出来,也就是把自己和自己

所能做的事情当作媒介,再展示出那些常常容易被世人忽略的东西。

I 1

宝格丽 (英语: BVLGARI) 是世界知名奢侈品名牌,由希腊裔的索

提里欧·宝格丽 (Sotirio Bulgari) 1884年在意大利罗马创立。

其产品线除了创立之初的高级宝石系列之外,后来还增加了腕表、

包、香水等高级精品,2004年开始跨足高级旅馆的经营。宝格丽的

正式商标采用了古罗马拉丁文拼法的"BVLGARI"而非"BULGARI"

也是为了呼应品牌在设计上与古罗马文化的渊源。

1 系列诞生于1999年,是至今拥有132年历史的宝格丽家

族新成员,虽然只有短短17年历史,却迅速地称为了该品牌的明星

产品。它之所以这么受欢迎,很大程度上是因为集经典的煤气罐

(Tubogas) 及宝格丽双 Logo 这两大品牌元素为一身,营造了极高的

辨识度。独特的伸缩性也让 1 第一系列的戒指被称作是弹簧

戒指,因为它真的可以进行伸缩变化。

00'24" ] BVLGARI (宝格丽)

[ 01'22" ] Serpenti (灵蛇系列)

[ 01'37" ] Colorful gem stone (五颜六色的宝石)

[ 01'58" ] Elizabeth Taylor (伊莉莎白·泰勒)

[ 02'41" ] Collection (系列)

[ 02'43" ] Millennium (千禧年)

[ 03'07" ] Band (指环)

[ 03'26" ] Merge eternity and modernity (连接永恒与现代)

[ 03'36" ] Great colosseum (角斗场)

[ 03'59" ] Tubogas (类似煤气管道的设计)

[ 05'25" ] The beginning of infinite possibility (一切可能性的开始)

05'25" ] The beginning of infinite possibility (一切可能性的开始)

[ 06'04" ] Prototype (原型)

[ 06'11" ] Solid gold (足金)

[ 07'54" ] James Joyce (一名爱尔兰诗人)

[ 07'55" ] A man of genius makes no mistakes; his errors are

volitional and are the portals of discovery. (真正的天才是不会犯错的;

他要是犯错,那也是故意的,而且这个错误也是通往新方向的大门。)

原来在岁月的某一个阶段中,曾经可能被认为是错误的事情,并不一

定真的就是错误的。只不过是因为当时的时机,因为现实,因为外界

的环境和接纳程度还到不了那个份上,所以它显得不合时宜。

Follie

芙丽芙丽 (英语: ) 既是集团名称,也是品牌名称。芙丽芙丽集

团旗下拥有芙丽芙丽和 Links of London 两个品牌,并在一些国家

为某些著名品牌担任独家代理。芙丽芙丽品牌是一家设计和制造珠宝

首饰的时尚品牌,1982年创立于希腊雅典,如今在全球25个国家

开设了超过390家店铺。

在创立之初,芙丽芙丽致力于设计制造珠宝首饰,以创意风格、

时尚设计、高档材质、合理价格为主要卖点。随着1994年手表系列

1998年配饰系列的加入,芙丽芙丽逐步成为了跨越珠宝、手表、

配饰三界的时尚品牌。

01'20" ] Burgundy (勃艮第红)

[ 01'55" ] Enhance the feel-good factor (强化让人感觉好的那些元素)

[ 02'36" ] Unveil (揭露) the sunny side of every woman throughout

the world

[ 04'13" ] Personality (性格)

[ 04'25" ] Dominate (主导)

[ 04'57" ] Supporting (支承的)

[ 04'59" ] Facilitate (促进)

[ 05'39" ] Aristotle (亚里士多德)

[ 05'42" ] The ultimate good for human being is happiness. (人生中最

终极的追求就是幸福。)

[ 08'05" ] IT girl (潮女)

[ 09'38" ] Lounge in style (懒散得有型)

[ 10'10" ] Be the center of attention (敢于当焦点)

[ 10'48" ] Strike a pose (懂得凹造型)

[ 11'18" ] Be the life of the party (日子天天过得像轰趴一样)

“世界上唯一不变的,就是变化本身,一件东西可以幻化成不同的样

子,有这样的态度来生活,陪伴着这样的态度来生活,也是每天都会

充满新意和希望的。

a

Pandora (潘多拉珠宝) 由金匠珀·因法德森 (Per Enevoldsen)

和他的妻子温妮 (Winnie) 1982年在丹麦哥本哈根创立。 潘多拉

珠宝是全球销量第三大的珠宝品牌,它以美丽的方式捕捉生命中难忘

的时刻,打造出美轮美奂、工艺精湛的珠宝,获得了世界各地消费者

的青睐。

潘多拉珠宝品牌的灵感来源于希腊神话。品牌设计师一心想要帮

助女性实现一种于人群之中凸显个性且卓然出众的效果,希望她们通

过设计自己的珠宝,表达自己的个性。由此而产生了一个与众不同的

专利概念,即顾客可自行选取吊坠和手链,任意组合个性化手链。

[ 00'27" ] Oxette (一个希腊轻奢品牌)

[ 01'09" ] Made for independent (独立的) , modern day women and

menwho love fashion and use it to express their own personality.

[ 02'01" ] Dominate (主导)

[ 03'31" ] Sweet & soft (甜美风)

[ 03'35" ] Rock & Roll (摇滚风)

[ 03'54" ] The look of you is sort of your visual (视觉的) language of

expressing yourself.

[ 04'10" ] An extension (延伸) of your mood, your feeling, the essence

(精华) of who you are.

[ 04'56" ] Madison Avenue (麦迪逊大街)

[ 05'02" ] Fake it till you make it

05'40" ] Associate (......有关系)

[ 06'08" ] Human curiosity always asks why, and then human

creativity finds ways of giving an answer.

[ 06'24" ] Titan (巨人)

[ 06'28" ] Zeus (宙斯)

[ 06'29" ] Prometheus (普罗米修斯)

[ 06'31" ] Epimetheus (埃皮米休斯)

[ 06'49" ] Gift (天赋)

[ 06'50" ] Courage (勇气)

[ 06'53" ] Swiftness (敏捷)

[ 07'08" ] Upright (直立的)

[ 07'42" ] Hephaestus (火神)

07'56" ] Charm (魅力)

[ 08'01" ] Curiosity (好奇心)

[ 08'04" ] Persuasion (说服)

[ 08'36" ] Pandora box (潘多拉盒子)

“即使外界环境再糟糕,磨难再多,你看上去都是相信希望的,也就

会渐渐地坚信希望,然后结果就是你慢慢地活出希望。

before Chanel

嘉布丽叶儿·波纳·“可可”·香奈尔 (英语: Gabrielle Bonheur

"Coco" Chanel, 1883819日—1971110) 是法国先

锋时装设计师,香奈尔 (Chanel) 品牌的创始人。她现代主义的见解,

男装化的风格,简约设计之中见昂贵,使其成为了20世纪时尚界的

重要人物之一。此外,她对高级定制女装的影响也令她被时代杂志评

选为20世纪影响最大的100人之一。

[ 00'54" ] Le style c'est moi - style is me.

[ 01'09" ] Jean Cocteau (·考克多)

[ 01'47" ] Because there is a reason that she told the stories like that.

[ 02'13" ] Gabrielle Chanel (嘉布丽叶儿·香奈尔)

[ 02'24" ] Traveling peddler (四处游走的小商贩)

[ 02'34" ] Laundress (洗衣女工)

[ 02'35" ] Laundry (洗衣店)

[ 04'14" ] We tell ourselves stories in order to live.

[ 06'04" ] Qui qu'a vu Coco (谁看到了Coco)

[ 07'04" ] So we tell stories in order to feel better, about ourselves.

[ 07'38" ] Entertainment (娱乐)

07'40" ] Genuine appreciation (真挚的欣赏)

[ 13'24" ] Before liberating (解放) women, she had liberated herself.

[ 13'38" ] Success is often achieved by those who don't know that

failure is inevitable. (成功通常属于那些并不觉得失败会注定发生的

人。)

[ 15'37" ] We tell ourselves stories in order to live. We tell stories in

order to feel better about ourselves.

“归根到底,人类还是会回到自我的认知,自身的求生本能,和给自

己做心理建设的能力上去。

black dress

2.55

no.5

ian dior pt.1

ian dior pt.3

dior

vuitton pt.1

vuitton pt.2

vuitton pt.3

(意大利)

1913年,创始人马里奥·普拉达(Mario Prada)在意大利米兰

的市中心创办了第一家精品店Fratelli Prada(意大利语的“普拉

达兄弟”之意),售有时尚而品质卓越的手袋、旅行箱、皮质配件及

化妆箱等系列产品,受到了来自皇室和上流社会的宠爱和追捧。而

70 年代的时尚圈环境变迁,创始人马里奥·普拉达也不幸去世,整

Prada的业绩就开始慢慢下滑,几近濒临破产的边缘。1978

Miuccia Prada临危受命,与其夫婿Patrizio Bertelli共同接管

Prada并带领Prada迈向全新的里程碑。

历经二十年的努力,Prada从一个小型的家族企业发展成为世界

顶级的奢华品牌。其产品所体现的价值一直被视为日常糊口中的不凡

享受。目前,Prada集团已经拥有PradaJil SanderChurchs

Helmut LangGennyCar Shoe等国际品牌,同时它还拥有MiuMiu

品牌独家许可权。所有Prada集团麾下的产品的加工生产都是由意大

Tuscany地区的Prada Spa管辖。

The Devil Wears Prada 《穿普拉达的恶魔》

Fashion show (时装秀)

Dragon Lady(女王)

Mario Prada(马里奥·普拉达)

A Milan-based leather goods store(在米兰的一个小小皮具商店)

Luggage and steamer trunk(行李箱与扁皮旅行箱)

Supplier to the Italian royal household(意大利皇室的供应商)

Mario Prada died without a clear heir.

Take the helm(掌舵,掌管)

The company is helmed by someone.

Miuccia Pradathe youngest grandgaughter of Mario Pradatook the

hlem.

An aspiring politician(有抱负的政治家)

Miuccia received a PhD in political science from University of Milan.

Intellectual(精英)

She was an ardent feminist(激进的女权主义者)and a member of the

Italian Communist Party(意大利共产党员)

Five years as a mime(哑剧)student

Inward luxury(精神上的奢华)

Light luxury(轻奢)

Inner luxury(内部奢华)

They don’t use very flashy logos(闪瞎眼的商标)on their merchandise

(商品).

“也就是真的信仰,能让人坚持这么多年;也就是因为坚持信仰,

以才等得到对的时刻。每一种偶然里,总是深藏着一份必然。

Miu(与普拉达同属 Prada 集团的独立品牌)

缪缪 (Miu Miu) 是与普拉达同属 Prada 集团的独立品牌。1992年,

Prada 第三代传人 Miuccia Prada 用自己的昵称创立缪缪 (Miu

Miu),以更年轻的女孩为销售对象。在风格上,缪缪 (Miu Miu)

Prada 更青春跳脱,产品有如小女孩般的天马行空,常以蕾丝、动物

图纹等作为元素,轻灵简约,深获许多时尚圈人士的喜爱,在时装界

的地位绝不逊于主线 Prada

节目简介

Miu Miu Prada 是什么关系?Miu Miu 的设计风格是怎样的?为

什么 Miuccia Prada 要通过 Miu Miu 不遗余力地打造一种丑陋的时

尚?大品牌背后的小故事,Q老师带您感受 Miu Miu 天马行空,离

经叛道风格的独特魅力。

00'31" ] Inward luxury, fashionless Fashion (精神上的奢华,不像时尚

的时尚)

[ 00'49" ] So Prada is an extension (延伸) of her faith and belief.

[ 01'12" ] Nickname (昵称)

[ 01'20" ] Secondary line (副线)

[ 01'37" ] Ready-to-wear (成衣系列)

[ 01'42" ] Accessory (配饰)

[ 01'50" ] Prada’s little sister

[ 01'51" ] A more affordable version of Prada

[ 02'22" ] The label strives to maintain (努力去保持) similar elements to

the Prada collection, but this line is edgier (更前卫) and funkier (更古

).

[ 03'52" ] Mary Jane shoe (玛丽珍鞋)

[ 04'00" ] A Pump (单鞋) with a strap (皮带子)

[ 04'42" ] Ballet slippers (芭蕾舞鞋)

[ 04'51" ] Ballerina (芭蕾舞演员)

[ 06'11" ] Miu Miu girl is playful; her outfit a bit more carefree (无忧无

虑的) and thrown together (堆一起) as if to say, "why not?"

07'31" ] “The creative process (设计过程) in Miu Miu is completely

different from that of Prada. Rather than being young, Miu Miu is

immediate. Prada is very sophisticated (成熟老道的) and considered (

虑周全的); and Miu Miu is much more naïve. The solution, when I am

working on Miu Miu, has to come immediately (快速地), instinctively

(本能地), spontaneously (不由自主地), with whatever is available (可用

) at the moment. If I think three times, I stop.”

[ 10'48" ] Ugly chic (丑陋的时髦)

[ 10'54" ] Fugly fashion (极其丑陋的时尚)

[ 11'15" ] “The investigation of ugliness (对丑的探究) is more interesting

than the bourgeois idea of beauty (资产阶级关于美的概念).”

[ 11'38" ] “And why? Because ugly is human (丑就是人性). It touches

the bad and the dirty side (阴暗面) of people.”

[ 13'00" ] Otherness (差异性)

[ 13'42" ] Humanity (人性化)

“人性,要既承认善,也承认恶,才完整;那么 Fashion,要既允许

美,也允许丑,才完整。 Fashion 就不该只是粉饰太平,追求视觉

上的美感,而应该是承认每一种 style 的存在。

ore Ferragamo Pt.1(意大利)

1947年,菲拉格慕以其设计的透明玻璃鞋获得“时装界奥斯卡”之称的

Naiman Marcus Award,成为第一个获得该奖项的制鞋设计师。1948年,菲拉格

慕出版了自传《梦想的鞋匠》,那时他已创作超过两万种设计并注册了三百五十

个专利权。1960年,菲拉格慕与世长辞。【广东话:飞了鸡毛,鸡毛包/鞋】

Humble beginning(卑微的开始)

Extraordinarily poor beginning(及其贫苦的开始)

Communion(团契)

Clogs(木屐)

Calling(召唤)

Drop out of school(退学)

² Cobbler(补鞋匠)

² Apprentice(学徒)

During his apprenticeship with a famous cobbler at the time, Salvatore learned

the basics (基本技巧) of shoemaking and shoe repair (做鞋和修鞋).

[ 07’25” ] There he offered cheap and comfortable made-to-measure(定制)shoes

to women, which made them much sought after (追捧).

[ 08’12” ] He oversaw (监管) a staff of five boys, the oldest being eighteen.

[ 08’49” ] But soon the young shoemaker entrepreneur started to feel that space

and customers were not enough and decided to take the road of emigration

(决定移民).

² Siblings(兄弟姐妹)

² Settle down(安定下来)

² Some did sewing(缝补),others ironing(熨烫).

² Cowboy boots(牛仔皮靴)

² Ferragamo soon became disappointed with the end result.

² Production line(生产线)

“每一个品牌的发展和成功,都有主观因素的贡献和时代背景的加持,甚至有

不少是逆流而上的故事。时代在推你一把的同时,往往也给你诸多的磨炼。”

ore Ferragamo Pt.2

Mass production(大规模生产)

Pool in their money together(把钱放一起)

Film studio(电影制片厂)

Shoe repair shop and store

In a very short time they were flooded with orders(订单蜂拥而至)for boots and

shoes from the film studios, at first for the cinema and then for the actors

themselves.

形容菲拉格慕迷得不要不要的词

Salvatore Ferragamo grew intoa successful,dapper(衣冠楚楚)artist.

With rugged(粗犷的),Bogart-like good looks

Speaking English witha thick Italian accent that charmed hispatrons(顾客).

He had mastered the practice of measuring the foot (量脚) and cutting (裁剪),

shaping and stitching (缝制) to fit.

Still, some customers complained that his shoes hurt their feet.

Anatomy(解剖学)菲拉格慕跑到南加州大学学习解剖学】

Human skeleton(人体骨骼)

Human weight distribution(人体的重量分布)

He had been making shoes wrong.

By measuring the foot while flat,they were creating shoes that supported the

ball(zhi) and the heel human feet,when they are wearing shoes,need

arch (足弓)support.

A thin steel insole(鞋垫).

Ferragamo began building it into his shoes,and suddenly his customers began

telling him he made them the most comfortable shoes they'd ever worn.

Breakthrough(突破)

Elegance and comfort are not incompatible (不相容的), and whoever maintain

that contrary simply doesn't know what he's talking about.

Shoemaker to the stars(明星御用鞋匠)

Increase his inventory(增加库存)

Shoemaking technology required individual operations to be done by hand, not by

machines.

The Great Depression(经济大萧条)

“Life is like a car driving through the night. The headlights only go like 100 to 200

feet forward. And you can make it all the way from California to New York

driving through the dark, cuz all you need to see is the next 200 feet. And that's

how life tends to unfold before us. If we just trust the next 200 feet would unfold

after that, the next 200 feet would unfold later, your life will keep unfolding, and it

will eventually get you to the destination whatever it is you truly want because you

want it."

“生活就像在开夜车。车灯只能照亮前面几十米,每走完这几十米,车灯就会

照亮下面那几十米,再到下面几十米。生活就像是这样,会一直慢慢开,带你

到你想要去的地方,只要你真的想去。

ore Ferragamo Pt.3

蝴蝶结单鞋 (the Vara pump) 1979年由品牌创始人塞尔瓦托·菲拉格慕的

长女菲尔玛 (Fiamma Ferragamo) 设计,一经推出便成为热卖款式,直至今日

仍是 Ferragamo 最经典的鞋款之一。其成功之处在于优雅及简洁的设计:圆头、

罗缎蝴蝶结及刻有 Ferragamo 标识的金色饰牌。

节目简介

Ferragamo cult object 是什么?蝴蝶结单鞋 (The Vara pump) 的设计灵

感来自哪?为了庆祝 Vara 35周年,Ferragamo 推出了什么活动?大品牌背后

的小故事,Q老师为您揭开 Ferragamo 经典设计“蝴蝶结单鞋”经久不衰的秘

密。

01'29" ] Cult object (被狂热崇拜的作品)

[ 02'07" ] Bucket list (遗愿清单)

[ 02'30" ]The Vara pump (蝴蝶结单鞋)

[ 04'27" ] I see the talent and passion (禀赋与激情) in you. Quit school, and I'll

teach you how to make shoes.【老撒让女儿辍学学做鞋子】

[ 05'29" ] Actually, Fiamma was the only one of Salvatore's children to work with

him for one year, under his guidance and experiencing his artful

(精巧的)creativity.

[ 06'28" ] Fashion's teenager (时尚界的天才少女)

[ 07'16" ] Pumps are made to slip on and off with no buckling (绑带) or lacing

(花边), although buckles and laces can be added as decoration. The front upper

portion (前半部分) of pumps are cut to be closer to the toes than the top of the

foot.

[ 08'33" ] Bow (蝴蝶结)1978 年,37岁的菲尔玛翻看父亲为赫本设计的鞋子】

[ 08'49" ] Puppy heel (方跟)

[ 09'32" ] Grosgrain (罗缎)

[ 09'41" ] Metal buckle (金属扣)

[ 11'03" ] Becoming (相配的)

[ 11'14" ]For a special occasion (特殊的场合)

[ 11'32" ] Graduation gown (毕业礼服)

[ 12'24" ] Go online and customize the color, fabric (材质), and grosgrain bow for

the iconic Vara

shoe.2013Vara庆祝35周年,顾客可以网上自己制作鞋子选中colorfabric

grosgrain

[ 13'13" ] We got two fabric choices, ten base-color options, and nine bow- and

heel-color choices.【两种材质,鞋身10种颜色,蝴蝶结和鞋跟9种颜色】

“人生是没有一个固定的轨迹是人人都必须要走的;而人生,只有信仰和梦想,

是不可以辜负的。

Vivier Pt.1(法国)

罗杰·维威耶 (Roger Vivier) 1907年出生在巴黎,从17岁开始就对造鞋

产生浓厚兴趣。其成名作诞生于上世纪50年代,为 Dior 高级皮鞋部门担任设

计师时期,因为大受欢迎,连续十年推出同系列鞋款。打响名堂之后,罗杰·维

威耶在巴黎开设了自己的第一家专门店,专攻高端皮鞋。由于当时在海外没有

分店,因此从世界各地慕名而来的粉丝们几乎将鞋店的门槛踏破,其中就包括

当今炙手可热的奥斯卡影后 Nicole Kidman1998年,一代制鞋大师罗杰·维

威耶逝世,享年90岁。

the shoes she would wear on her

coronation (加冕礼) day.

[ 02'29" ] A regal pair of ruby-studded sandals (一双镶嵌着红宝石的豪

华凉鞋)

[ 02'48" ] Featuring the same fleur-de-lis motif (鸢尾花花纹) that

decorated the Imperial State Crown (女王的皇冠)

[ 03'39" ] On June 2, 1953, he was the only French designer to attend

the royal crowning ceremony (皇家加冕仪式).

[ 04'33" ] Adopted son (养子) of the Viviers

[ 04'45" ] Paris School of Fine Arts (巴黎美术学院)

[ 04'47" ] Sculpture (雕塑)

[ 04'55" ] Sculptor (雕塑家)

[ 05'16" ] Apprentice (学徒)

05'43" ] Where he learned the ins and outs (里里外外) of shoe design, Roger

realized he could make sculptures to be worn.

[ 07'05" ] After he finished his job at the shoe factory, Roger decided

that he preferred to learn all aspects of the trade by working in several

other factories too and ended his study at art school.

[ 07'57" ] Stiletto heel (细高跟鞋)

[ 08'24" ] Roger Vivier, he didn't invent the stiletto heels, he certainly

refined (完善) it. But he didn't invent it.

[ 09'53" ] Allowing designers to make steel rods (金属棒) that could

support a woman's weight

[ 10'30" ] Architect of the dress

[ 10'44" ] Sculptor of shoes

[ 10'50" ] I have always been passionate (热情的) about design. I reviewed

my sketches (草图) hundreds of times, because I want to make sure that

the idea I have in my mind is correct and respects the architecture of

the foot.

[ 11'46" ] Vivier's interest in the architecture really spoke to Dior.

(与迪奥相呼应)

[ 12'23" ] Ready-to-wear (成品系列)

[ 12'39" ] Rounded shoulder, thin waist, with full skirt-shaped corolla

20 centimeters from the ground (圆肩,细腰,花冠一样的长裙,裙子的下沿

只高出地面20厘米)

[ 12'55" ] The New Look brought emphasis to the ankle and foot.

[ 13'30"] Puppy heel (方跟)

[ 13'46" ] The shoes forced women to stand on their tiptoes (踮起脚尖),

clench their calf muscles (绷紧小腿肌肉), and thrust their chest forward

(挺胸向前) for balance.

[ 14'18" ] The dramatic stance (体态) that the heels forced women to adopt

was said to make the wearer look sexy and glamorous (迷人的).

[ 14'51" ] Christian Dior and Roger Vivier, together they created a golden

era of design (设计的黄金时代).

[ 15'40" ] Cult object (被狂热崇拜的作品)

高跟鞋就像是素描画的最后一笔线条,为女性的侧影画

出点睛之笔。

Vivier Pt.2

Roger Vivier 的经典方扣系列是于上世纪六十年代为时装品牌 Yves Saint

Laurent 所设计的 Belle du Jour 方扣漆皮鞋,其鞋头前端的特大长形方扣,

革新了传统的鞋子设计,外加当时的明星效应,令这种方扣皮鞋在当年创出销售

12万对的佳绩。1967 年,在经典电影《白日美人》 (Belle du Jour) 当中,

法国国宝级女演员凯瑟琳·德纳芙 (Catherine Deneuve) 便穿着 Roger Viver

的金属方扣粗跟鞋,而这款鞋随后也以“Belle du Jour”的名字而命名。

2005年秋冬,新任设计师 Bruno Frisoni Belle du Jour 更名为 Belle

Vivier,以此隆重地纪念已故设计大师 Roger Vivier。新一季的产品,除了为

鞋身换上丝绢、马毛等物料外,还在方扣上加上闪石或刻字的装饰,紧贴时尚潮

流。

节目简介

1957 Dior 的创始人去世后,Roger Vivier 是怎么继续发展的?Roger

Vivier cult object 是什么? 两个都是由鞋痴创造的品牌 Salvatore

Ferragamo Roger Vivier 有些什么样的交织?大品牌背后的小故事,Q老师

为您揭开 Roger Vivier 经典鞋款 Belle Vivier 的神秘面纱。

语言点

[ 00'21" ] Sculptor (雕塑家)

[ 00'26" ] Shoe designer

[ 00'36" ] He achieved something even greater than his original goal.

00'46" ] Sculptures to be worn (能穿在身上的雕塑)

[ 00'52" ] In aesthetics (美学上)

[ 00'56" ] In everyday life (在日常生活中)

[ 01'02" ] Cult object (被狂热崇拜的作品)

[ 01'42" ] Scavenger hunt (寻宝游戏)

[ 02'04" ] Madison Avenue (麦迪逊大道)

[ 03'16" ] Must-have list (必需列表)

[ 03'19" ] Must-have power

[ 04'18" ] Cosmetics (化妆品)

[ 05'01" ] Take the helm (接管)

[ 05'11" ] Avant-garde (超前的)

[ 06'02" ] A-line (A字型) Mondrian dresses 灵感来自于荷兰艺术家Mondrian

comprised graphic black lines (黑色线条) and blocks of white and primary colors (

色和三原色方块), directly referencing the work of Mondrian.

07'17" ] Rounded shoulder (圆肩)

[ 07'19" ] Thin waist (细腰)

[ 08'22" ]

The beat generation (垮掉的一代)1960年起源于美国并极

大影响西方的文化】

[ 09'08" ] A-line dresses, hardly accessorized at all (没有任何装饰品). No jewelry,

not even a watch. No stockings. No hats or gloves or nail varnish (指甲油). The only

item these ladies are obviously wearing with their dresses are shoes.

[ 09'48" ] The typical dress was fairly straight and geometric (几何形状的), finishing

at the knee or higher, with a strong emphasis on the legs.

[ 10'17" ] Shorter skirts required a flatter shoe (平底鞋).

[ 10'32" ] Black leather square toe pump (黑色矮根方头鞋)

[ 10'41" ] It features a large silver buckle (银色方扣) and a sturdy 3.5 cm

block

heel (3.5厘米的结实方跟).Puppy heel (方跟)

[ 11'29" ] Couture design (服装设计)

[ 12'00" ]

Belle de jour (《白日美人》)Rofer Vivier 家的平头矮跟鞋

出现的电影】

[ 12'53" ] Round toe, puppy heel, grosgrain bow Vara

[ 12'58" ] Square toe, block heel, silver buckle Belle Vivier

[ 14'12" ] Inspiration (灵感)

[ 14'41" ] Detour (绕道)

并非完成每一件事情,都要走最直接,一眼看得到终点的那条路。任何一次

detour,可能都是为了帮我们更好的完成梦想,或者是,完成更好的梦想。

Blahnik(英国)

1972年创立于英国的Manolo Blahnik高跟鞋无论价格多高,总是刚推出几周就

销售一空。正如Manolo Blahnik本人所说:“我们在谈论的是用传统手工方式制

作的鞋子。当然,Manolo Blahnik高跟鞋是贵了一些,但这样的价钱不过分。

一直以来,Manolo Blahnik都坚持以一个传统鞋匠的要求一丝不苟地生活工作

着,他以手工制作鞋楦、缝制皮革,而无论他的鞋子多么精美,却总能成为完美

时装的不可或缺的一部分,从这个意义上说,Manolo Blahnik的高跟鞋,是最

懂得时装的完美配饰。MadonnaNicole Kidman都是Manolo Blahnik的忠实拥

趸(dun3,更值得一提的是Manolo Blahnik同样也是男鞋领域的翘楚。

补充:

Manolo Blahnik)的鞋是高跟鞋中的“贵族”拥有一双Manolo Blahnik)

是女人的梦想,就连大牌女星们也是它的狂热追求者。如果说阿玛尼是奥斯卡颁

奖礼的“制服”,那么莫罗·伯拉尼克 (Manolo Blahnik) 就是奥斯卡颁奖礼

“惟一指定用鞋”。一句话形容莫罗·伯拉尼克 (Manolo Blahnik) 的鞋就是:

Manolo Blahnik高跟鞋会挑起情欲。”

成功之道:莫罗·伯拉尼克 (Manolo Blahnik) 的鞋子无论价格多高,总是

刚推出几周就销售一空。正像他所说的:“我们在谈伦的是用传统手工方式制作

的鞋子。当然,莫罗·伯拉尼克 (Manolo Blahnik) 高跟鞋是贵了一些,但这样

的价钱不过分。”

节目简介:

Manolo Blahnik 成为家喻户晓的品牌离不开哪部美剧?【欲望都市】Manolo

Blahnik 所要传达的时尚理念是什么?Manolo Blahnik 的创始人莫罗·伯拉尼克

是如何开始制鞋的人生轨迹?大品牌背后的小故事,Q老师为您讲述时刻流淌

着性感线条 Manolo Blahnik 不一样的传奇故事。

语言点

[ 01'23" ] Red-carpet friendly shoes (红毯鞋)

[ 01'30" ] Household name (家喻户晓的名字)

[ 02'03" ] Sex and the City (《欲望都市》)

[ 02'41" ] Seven seasons(每一季都有Manolo Blahnik鞋子)

[ 02'59" ] Hangisi heel

[ 03'02" ] Ultimate shoe (终极高跟鞋)

[ 03'10" ] The one, the ultimate

[ 03'17" ] Blue satin almond toe pumps featuring a Swarovski crystal front buckle and

a spin high heel. (蓝色缎面杏仁头的单鞋镶着一个施华洛世奇水晶的大方扣和像

圆规脚一样的细高跟)

[ 03'49" ] Square toe (方头)

03'52" ] Pointed toe (尖头)

[ 03'56" ] Round toe (圆头)

[ 04'06" ] Almond toe (杏仁头)

[ 05'40" ] 【西方媒体这样评价设计师】He is more than a shoe designer, he is the

man who can single-handedly make a woman feel instantly sexy with his ultra

sophisticated, wildly fun high heel shoes. (这个男人,不仅仅是一个鞋履的设计师,

他可以只手,做出极为精致的超高跟鞋,让女人一上脚,马上就感到自己性感无

)

[ 06'14" ] Comfort, femininity, elegance (舒适,女性气质,典雅)

[ 06'34" ] And the secret of toe cleavage, a very important part of the sexuality of the

shoe, you must only show the first two cracks. (鞋子性感的秘密,在于脚趾的指缝,

而你所设计的鞋子,只能露出前面两个趾缝)

[ 07'24" ] Free-spirit (自由精神)

[ 07'36" ] Sexy in a classic way

[ 08'01" ] Primary power (原动力)

[ 08'45" ] A fully elaborated backstory (一个完全丰满的背景故事)

[ 08'48" ] Character (人物)

[ 08'51" ] Visualize (设想出)

[ 09'04" ] M B构想的一个例子描述】"She is from Dar es Salaam and she has left

her husband who beats her, and is now on the way to the station where she will get

onto the train that will bring her to her lover's arms and freedom."

[ 09'49" ] China brush (毛笔【注,)Manolo Blahnik不是用铅笔而是用毛笔创作】

[ 10'00" ] 【又一个创作例子 故事】"This is for a woman from Rio. So Carmen

Miranda! Very passionate (有激情的), a little vulgar (粗鲁的), but always laughing

and ready for fun. She loves the raffia roses on the heels. They make her feel free to

spend all of her husband's money . . . This is borderline Liz Taylor on a bad day . . .

This woman is a little prim ()like Edinburgh . . . This sandal 【凉鞋】is for

古板的

a beautiful Italian girl . . ."

[ 11'46" ] Czech (捷克人)【父亲是捷克人】

[ 11'49" ] Pharmaceutical (药品)

11'54" ] Canary Island (加那利群岛)【母亲是西班牙人】

[ 11'58" ] Banana plantation (香蕉种植园)

[ 12'19" ] Homeschooled (在家接受教育)

[ 12'46" ] International law (国际法)【反叛读建筑接着读语言文学】

[ 12'57" ] Language and literature

[ 13'07" ] Set design (布景设计)

[ 16'12" ] Always have fun. Always be curious.

有时候我们掌握不好一项技能,总觉得这个技能难过天。

其实可能只是,我们没有找到使用这项技能的原因。

Choo Pt.1

Choo Pt.2

上海出租办公室-股票新四板是什么意思

大品牌背后的小故事

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